Cams with springs!

Here's the latest condition of the archer. I have managed to find some nice little expansion springs for cheap at CT of all places. As you can see I've attached them on the outside of the main body of the machine. They are working just fine. Next step is to wax up the parts and re-attach the strings from the figure. By next post I'll be able to claim success or not!
Fingers crossed!

The joys of an ipad2 and sketchbook pro

This is my first post from my new tablet!
Recently I've finally been able to purchase a ipad2, which I figured in the long run would enable to sketch out ideas while on the run. Since a lot of design these days seems to cross between various programs like photoshop/illustrator and various cad programs, it made sence to me to have a way to digitally sketch ideas out and easily import into whatever program I'd like to use to finalize ideas.
By far Sketchbook Pro is the best sketching app for the iPad. For more detailed measured design I've found iDesign, which enables you to make Illustrator like drawings using accurate and editable unit lengths, for eg. in inches or centimeters. These finalized drawing can be printed out to a wireless printer if you have access to one with little issues. So in other words you can travel, surf and research, come up with a sketch idea, finalize it and with luck print out your automata ideas from one little tablet. It's great!!
Here's an example of a quick one afternoon project I sketched out in 10 minutes.

Tomorrow I'm in the shop again, more work on the cam arrangement for the Kyudo archer. Inching forward!

Finally time in the dungeon!

It's been a couple months but I have finally found some time to work on the Kyudo Archer.
I have started to replace the drive train with a design spotted in a new video about Karakuri.
It involves using large disks to separate the cams, with the the levers that follow the cams placed under the cams, with some sort of reverse force applied. ( I think counter acting cams or weights. Not too sure just yet.)
Here's the current state:

It doesn't look much different from the original cam design I made, but these slight modifications will help the levers follow the cams much easier. I hope!

You can see here that the strings that follow the outside of the arms look a little untidy. This is a prototype, so in the next version, IF I can get this to work, I plan to hide the strings in carefully carved grooves in the arms. That's still a few months away.

In other news, my friends Carol and Russ brought back a small gift from their most recent auction trip to Japan to buy antiques for their business here in Vancouver. They were nice enough to visit a doll store and purchase a small sample of traditional doll heads. Thanks Russ and Carol @ Kikori Japanese Antiques!!!

More next week! Hopefully...

Oh those darn eyeballs!

So I am gearing up for a considerable re-design of the drive chain based on some recent vids posted on the net. However at home last night I was able to attempt to make my first eyeballs from scratch. 

This site http://www.nonidolls.com/eye.html had instructions on making 'glass' eyeballs from scratch. I had to make 4 mm eyes for my archer, so I gave it a go. It's a bit difficult, and only a few out of a few dozen seemed to work. BUT the downer came in the form of air bubbles that formed on the surface of my little eyes. I used my wife's clear nail polish, and I think there was a bit  of a chemical reaction between the Fimo and the polish. The glaze looked great going on, but overnight something messed. I have resorted to carefully painting on the pupils and re-coating the two chosen eyes once again. It works, but not as precise.
If you give these eye a go, beware, it'll probably take a few attempts to pull it off. 
Off to a full day in the dungeon/workshop!

Adding Hair - the not-so-perfect way.

Not much time this week for work on the archer doll, but I did manage to add some hair to the doll's head and fine tune a few of the joints.
Here's a photo- I've used the 'poor mans' method where I purchased a fake beard, took it apart carefully, and epoxied the hair down in strips. This is NOT the typical method for adding hair to the dolls in the traditional sense, but until I meet a master who would be generous enough to teach me properly, this way will work for now. I the end it didn't look too bad. Could have been a little tidier but overall the results are good. This is, after all, a prototype!
Next on the to-do list is re-make the supports for the drive train. It is currently slipping. I may have to come up with a better balanced system to move the arms up and down, which at the moment are proving to be the most difficult to move. Looking at the photos of the original older mechanisms, it appears that there are some counter-weights that might help matters. I should assume that some sort of gravity assisted mechanisms is involved. I really wished I had seen that original archer moving up close and personal! 

'might add some sideburns after I polish the face up a bit  more...

Quick update

Thought I'd post a few photos related to my current attempts.

I was going though my Japan trip photos and came across a display at the Karakuri Museum in Nagoya. These show the process of designing and constructing an archer karakuri as done by the current master of karakuri, Shobei Tamaya IX,  The only disappointing thing to note is that I failed to get a clear photo of the center of the display that showed the cams in detail! Oh Man!

 And finally here is a shot of a classic example of Karakuri at it's height. This wonderful piece is in the Toyota Museum of Industry collection in Nagoya.

Cams and Grommets...

Hi again!
I had a three or four hour stint in the little corner basement workshop this week. Nothing too dramatic was achieved, but I did manage to start to add the grommets for the strings to follow - you can see them here... You can see in this photo the 'stops' built into the arms so that when the bow arm is in tension, it should straighten out completely.
Also I added the third smaller gear to the 'drive' of the doll. This has slowed the potential action of the doll when it is cranked, just in case any quick motion might have damaged the mechanisms. This has allowed me to move the handle slightly up. Might save some knuckle skin in the long run.


Tonight I've started to break down the cycle of the movements and made a primitive drawing of the possible cam shapes. I have five cams designed into the base, four are now accounted for. One for the up and down motion of the shoulders, moving both the arms up. The next one straightens the bow arm, while the other arm cam bends the forearm of the string arm forward. The fourth cam should pull the upper part of the string arm in the opposite direction as the bow is drawn.

I'm thinking now, as I type this, that the fifth cam could be used to activate the trigger hand to release the bow string - but that might be a tougher done than said.
Here's my very rough drawing of the cam designs based on breaking the time down into 360 degrees. As I've said before, this Kyudo doll won't do every movement precisely, just mimic most of them. I found a video online of a gal putting on quite a performance, and basically decided to time the motions so that the up and down movements of the arms would be the point where the doll would 'cycle' to it's beginning stance. Unfortunately my skills are not up to snuff so much to include the relaxed pose of the archer at the end of the shot. You can see the video that inspired me here.
I'll have to wait another week before I can string this doll up -- sigh. 
Before I go, one more online treat is an old black and white film of Kyudo archers in full armor practicing their combat skills. This is quite amazing, and I think that armor design has given me a few ideas on how to decorate my archer.


Here's something to make your mind buzz for now...

The 'Archer' takes shape...

Here's the latest state (sort-of) of the Kyudo archer karakuri:

There's so much more to do with this project I don't know where to start...

It might look a bit elegant for now, but the most important parts, the strings and levers, are still to be figured out.

This is not the most recent state, but it's close. What I have done since this photo was taken was re-design the bow arm, re-design the chest area, and generally clean up the rough look of this doll. I've narrowed the waist a bit so that his shoulders appear wider, and the bow arm is designed now with 'stops' built into it. Basically the limits of motion have been re-designed into the arm. This will help to stop the arms from flopping in the wrong direction once under tension.

Next on the to-do list is: 

-add a third smaller gear to the geartrain and attach the crank/handle to this new gear. (This will slow the motion down by a factor of four, at least I hope so...

-I have some hair to attach - which I will do soon because it's always nice to see your figure 'come alive'. This tends to help focus on the detailing I find...

-space out the cam wheels with plastic bearings, and then take all but one out, and then string up my first range of motion The first basic 'range of motion' will be the up and down movement of the shoulders/arms. Here's an image from the web showing the motion flow of a Kyudo archer-

Essentially I want to emulate the steps from about the third figure in to the seventh figure, and cycle back to the third. I won't be able to raise the arms up as high as this figure shows, but it should be close.

- next I need to figure out how to string the doll's arms to get the leverage I will need to have realistic motion. This will be the most difficult part. I suspect I'll have to re-design a number of cams to make this work.

I have an idea how to go about designing the various motions, and I'll share that with you next time...

'Till the next day in the shop I'll be reviewing the finished idea over and over in my head. I does help!

Inching forward...

Here's the latest progress. Not much to show, but it was a bit fiddly. I managed only three hours this week as I am recovering from some nasty dentistry yesterday. I have a mouth full of stitches, and with the pain killers the 'attention to detail' was lacking a bit. I managed to wreck one of my dozuki blades in a brief bout of frustration, so I had to stop after a few goals were achieved.
You can see here I have managed to fix the plastic geared wheels to wood circles so that I was able to pin the wheels through the arbors. Iv'e added a rough handle (and spacers to stop the gears un-meshing) and have also cut a rounded hole in the top with a Ume (plum) petal-like arrangement of eyelets to eventually accommodate the strings up to the doll. I've also very roughly shaped out the lower section of the doll which eventually will have realistic legs with Tabi socks, with the intent of making proper footwear for the archer. I plan for the doll to look more like a traditional Kyudo archer, not so much like the Samurai archer you saw in my last post - I think it would look more elegant me thinks...
Next, affixing the cam wheels to the main arbor and making tiny rollers and spacers out of Fimo. I might have my first crack at the head of the archer - though I think it will take a few tries to get that just right...


More hopefully next week.

Coincidentally a new short film about Karakuri featuring...

Check out this new karakuri film on Vimeo. Amazingly enough it features an archer. Mine won't be as nice, but hey, humble beginnings...

Two weeks later...

I haven't had much time to work on my latest project lately due to an erratic work schedule and various meetings- BUT this week I managed to work on the Archer for a couple hours...


This is just a prototype construction, eventually everything will look a little more polished. On the right you can see the brass bearings that will rest on the cams, now represented as the wheels you see here. I plan to cut the wheels into cams as I work out the various movements in the yet to be made Archer doll. The green gears will next be fixed to the brass pinion using wood wheels screwed to the plastic, and then a pin passed through the pinion/new wheel. A handle is next as well. There will be a string 'shuttle' just under the hole drilled in the top to guide the strings up to the doll. I have to be very careful to make this as friction-less as possible, so I plan to use small brass grommets to help with this.


In the next view you can see a few elastics as stand-ins for the springs I have yet to find. Most of the time you'll see the cams a little higher than here as the width of these circles represent the maximum distance the strings will eventually follow.


So for next week (or the next), more of the same; a little more fine tuning, and then a mock-up of the archer.

Kyudo beginnings...

Planetarium update: I'm still planning to make some kind of device to file the gears of my planetarium carefully. A few technical glitches remain, but I'm close to getting back to that project soon.
Recently I've been distracting myself with various small automata projects, creations I know I can finish. In doing so my confidence has gone up a bit, so I've decided to make my first self-designed Karakuri.

What we have here is the basis of a Japanese Kyudo archer. Yes I know it doesn't look like much just yet, but these wheels and levers will be the basis of the mechanisms that will drive various movements in an upright traditional Kyudo archer. The levers and wheels will eventually have little strings attached to them and with luck I may have the basis of karakuri movement down. 
Next for this project is to attach some springs for tension, add a platform on top of the mechanics and begin construction of the mannequin.
A little bit every week and my confidence increases to tackle the tea doll. First, a try at an archer!

A Clockwork Miracle - latest from Radiolab

This is well worth a visit! The podcast Radiolab is one of the best there is, and the latest involves automata...

http://www.radiolab.org/blogs/radiolab-blog/2011/jun/14/clockwork-miracle/

Amazing automata from Dave Johnson

Click here for a link to this amazing automata by Dave Johnson. He's used rare earth magnets in a continuous loop ...

Pinocchio and Muppets. Interesting.

Here's our first look at the main Character from Guillermo Del Toro and The Jim Henson Company's upcoming Pinocchio movie. Nice work...

House of Automata website

My favorite blog IO9 has posted a great link to a UK site called 'House of Automata'. Lots of old interesting automata found here, and quite a bit of inspiration.

And for an added bonus, check out this old Automaton Harpist by Vichy on Youtube.

Check this link out regarding Creepy automata displayed in churches in the 15th century
There's a link on this page to a Standford University publication that goes into quite a lot of depth about these 'Satan' automata used by the church to scare people into attending regularly. Happy Easter!

Changes, and lots of fiddlin'

In the last day and a bit I've found a little time to work on the smaller gears in my Mars Orery. I'm a little apprehensive because this is where I will see where all the small errors will add up to a gear train that doesn't want to move. I expected this, so now the task of sanding the teeth down and finely adjusting the spaces between the gears comes into play...
The first task was to assemble the pinions of the smaller idler gears. I made a jig for my Dremel so that I could round off the tips of the dowel, but found the standard hardware store dowel was far too soft, and so the rounding bit tore the hell out of the ends of the stock. I alleviated this by buying some 1/2 inch oak dowel. 

my cute little collection of idlers

After the rounding off was done it was time to drill the 1/4 inch hole for the pinion dowel. The 1/4 inch dowel fit a bit too tightly into the new Igus plastic bearings, so some careful sanding was needed. If you ever try to make something similar, word of advice, source out accurate dowel. That has been the biggest money waster so far, badly made dowel. Take some calipers with you on your shopping trips if you don't want to be disappointed!
I next took quite a while making sure the 'arbor supports', the small planks that hold the gears apart, were spaced properly and the counter-sunk holes for the bearings were perfectly measures and drilled. This took the better part of an afternoon and a few gimmicks to make this work.

the first dry fit - very little movement but it did fit together!

By the end of the day I had the gearbox roughly together, and just like I suspected, not much would move. There's many hours of fine tuning ahead. AND the actual driver gears and mechanism still has to be made. I've fiddled with making some beveled gears, but at this point I suspect a simple wheel/dowel type of gear might be the best approach. We'll have to see...



So the current state of the gearbox is encouraging but daunting at the same time. In the image here you can see the top of the gearbox looks pretty complicated, but not for long. The circular bearings I made would not work due to the minor errors in the whole design, so I opted to make small UHMW plastic bearings to do the job, and they seem to be working well. The top outer plate there will look simpler and should be an even flat surface before too long.
Onto teeth sanding using a large cut-off wheel that I've stuck sandpaper to. Better wear a mask for that!

The 'Orbital Plate Bearings' take shape...

One feature in my little gearbox that I've failed to talk about are what I'm calling the vital 'Orbital Plates' and the associated top portion of the gear box. These are actually very important parts of the design as these will keep the three separate geared plates in alignment and vertical.

The Deimos, Phobos and Mars gears are attached vertically with cages of dowel to various sized plates. (Well actually the Mars gear is strictly a 1/2 inch dowel up the very center...) These plates have about 1/8 of an inch clearance from one another and the outside recess of the top of the gearbox. Have a look at these photos and you'll see what I've decided to do.

I've made my own coasters or wheels about an inch across out of Alumilite casting resin to surround the two plates. I was hoping to find one inch nylon coasters but the local hardware store were kinda low on those. We'll see how they ware, but in my experience the Alumilite is pretty tough..

That takes care of the horizontal friction I hope...

For the vertical friction I've cut out and shaped 1/8 thicknesses of UHMW from Lee Valley. If you're unfarmilliar with this stuff, UHMW stands for Ultra High Molecular Weight and is perfect for frictionless bearings. It's a bit tough to cut, but not impossible. A good sharp xacto blade helps, but use some of that green High-Friction Guard Tape on yer fingertips if you want to keep them. I plan to next rout out 1/16th deep grooves for the UHMW to sit in and I'll attach with very small brass screws.


As for the rest, well it's looking like this:

Next : making the gear assemblies. The bearings hopefully arrive tomorrow!

latest on the Antikythera Device

Check out the latest on the Antikythera Device, an ancient Greek clockwork calendar...

It's amazing what they accomplished a thousand years before clockwork mechanism became the norm...

(link via Wired)

http://www.wired.com/wiredscience/2011/04/antikythera-mechanism/

Amazing kinetic sculptor from San Fransisco

Check out this amazing kinetic sculptor by the name of Reuben Margolin from San Francisco.

I can only dream of this sort of complexity for now. Wow!

(Goto the YouTube site and watch in HD, it's stunning work!)

The Gearbox takes shape...

Steady progress has been made constructing the gearbox that will hold all the wooden gears and bearings. Despite having measured drawings and cutting carefully, I made a few minor mistakes getting the dimensions just right. No amount of detail and careful execution helps when cutting wood is involved. It swells and warps depending on humidity, and if you pencil lines are just a smidge one side or the other, these can all add up to a couple millimeters of error.

The first attempt at fitting parts together had a few issues. Some of the cross braces were a few millimeters out and made any attempt to fit this complex box together quite difficult. Word of advice, when making wooded parts for something like this, a mm or two of give may be a good idea. Also triple check your drawings. Some precise alignments might make sense if this were metal, but you need give when working with wood.
Though as you can see here after a bit of filing and nibbling with my saw it fit together nice and tight.
There is no glue used here, but it holds together just fine. I'm using straight grained fir and various thicknesses of Baltic birch ply. I eventually plan to stain darker and polish with various waxes to give it an 'antique' look...


Next: finish a couple more gear support parts, then on to installation of the bearings and gears (taking into account the slight measurement changes), and designing a new driver gear.

quick update

Well poor Japan has been hit once again with tragedy. It's hard not to look at the news images after visiting such an amazing country. Many places I personally visited and enjoyed the most were small coastal towns and cities, much like Sendai and Fukushima. It's so heartbreaking to imagine all those lives just gone and swept away by the sea. 


I'm trying to distract myself with new career plans and of course working on the Mars orery when I can.


Here's the latest image of my CAD edits as I plan the gearbox out...

The small red things on the end of the blue idler wheels are 3D representations of my new Ignus plastic bearings that I have received as samples. ( http://www.igus.com/default.asp?PAGE=IGLIDE) What's great here is that this is all to scale, so I've gone ahead and made quite a few of the smaller parts. What is not shown here is that I've replaced the four smaller idler gears with two larger ones. So long as all the gears are in pairs (as with the other two trains) and not singles, the direction of movement will still remain the same.
I've recently made a jig so that I can round off the ends of the 1/2 inch pinions with a router that has a round-off bit with a 1/4 inch bearing. It took a few tries but it seems to be working well.


Next is the supporting frame. 
More soon...

Nice online Orrery

Had to share this nice digital Orrery...
http://dd.dynamicdiagrams.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/orrery_2006.swf

Cutting wood!

So as you can see I've started cutting the gears. 

Whew! When I said this project would be a 'zen' project, I was not kidding! Each large gear wheel takes approximately one and a half hours each, obviously less for the smaller gear wheels.

I've been having small issues knowing what printing settings to use when printing off the paper templates. What I do is print the gears on paper at a scale of 1 to 1, then spray adhesive on the back and stick to the thin ply that I've decided to use. If I don't pay attention to the printer settings, errors will occur. And considering the tiny tolerances of the teeth, all the gears MUST be printed with the same printing settings. One bit of good news is that Alibre (my CAD program) and Inkscape (I used this to generate the gear designs) both print accurately. So when I print the gears with the CAD changes and compare them to the Inkscape print jobs, they match. That is GOOD NEWS.

Then off to the scroll saw. I should be using a band saw, but I'm thinking it that might be too aggressive, and not as delicate for the smallish teeth. I was going to use thicker Russian Birch ply, which is very nice but expensive stuff, but realized that was over kill, at least for the gears. If I use a fine scroll saw blade, and take my time, the gears come out fine. I'm using three separate layers of ply for each large gear. I wanted to add a design detail and cut down on the weight a bit. You can see the layered effect I am after in the photo above.

Other news concerns the bearings for the arbors. I've sourced out a company in the U.S. called Igus that make all plastic bearings. ( http://www.igus.de/default.asp?PAGE=IGLIDE) After chatting with a sales rep, I've got free samples of the various sizes I'd like to use in the mail. I asked for pairs of each so that I might make a jig and test how well they cut down on the friction. I should get those soon I hope! If they work well I may buy fifty or so at a time for future projects. (A clock?)

And finally cryptic a view of my completed gearbox.

It's not there 100 % yet, but the dimensions are fixed. The only modification I need to make is with the placing of the plastic bearings mentioned above. More on that when I receive my free samples. Tee hee hee!

Time to put on the dust mask again and get busy!

As I work through the details, designing and re-designing the various parts to fit together, I open up unforeseen issues that I've missed. That's the beauty of this program as it lets me see the mistakes I would usually see after I had actually made the part. Working in CAD obviously has many advantages. Though I suppose if one did everything by hand the measure 3 times - cut once principle would apply here. BUT as this a complicated piece, seeing it evolve as a 3D structure is very handy.
Next hurdle: designing a self-contained 'gear-box' so as to ease the construction of the whole piece. I want to be able to remove all of the gear assemblies in one package instead of relying on the structure of the table to support the gears. This will make things much easier in the long run...

Well it's coming together pretty quickly. Today was all about refining the design of the gears and how they nestled inside each other. I'm confident enough now to start the work on the table design. Picked up a nice fat antique bible for 20$ with lots of purdy pictures which I will carefully go through to choose a for design ideas. It's looking like some of the design details from (of all things) grandfather clocks  are catching my eye. I've also chatted up my pal Russ for some advice for ageing and staining the piece to make it look nice and old. Should have the digital version finished up in a couple days...

Mars Orrery, first baby steps

You can tell I'm excited because here's a second post in just a few days...Which is saying a lot as I'm trying to figure out a career change and heavy life stuff at the same time. This little project will be my 'Zen' path as I struggle through that...
So I've started the visualization of the piece using Alibre. That's a pretty smart way to go because I need to space the drive and idler gears properly. They transfer the power from the yet to be made crank to the main wheels for each Martian objects in equal time. As described before, as Mars makes one full rotation, the moons should move at their own speed. Using lots of same sized gears, idler gears, and even numbered ones so as not to change the direction, hopefully will accomplish this. It might not be the most efficient design, but it'll get 'er done! I'm hoping to optimize the space needed and fit everything into a small open-framed box that can be slid into a nice antique-looking display table.
Next step, careful design of the main wheels so that they nest one inside the next. If you look at your average clock, the second, minute and hour arbors nest very delicately within one another, with the hands carefully attached to the top of each 'tube' or arbor. I have to accomplish the same thing but on a larger scale.  
More soon.

It's been a while, but now a new project --- MARS.

a quick sketch of my Mars Orrery

It has been quite a while since my last entry, but I've been working through a few heavy 'life' things since October, and I'm finally ready to start up another major project.
The Karakuri plans are still very slowly chugging along, but I've been derailed as it were by a lack of spring steel that's an appropriate size. Until I have a source for this there really is no point in starting the construction, so for now I've begun to develop plans for a long overdue project. It's still good practice for the Karakuri, so for now I'm content with just making something complicated.
For the last ten years or so I've been floating the idea around of making an Orrery ( http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orrery ) of Mars and it's two moons Deimos and Phobos. Made completely out of wood one would turn a crank, Mars would turn on it's axis, and the two moons would rotate at the appropriate orbital speeds. I'd design it to look old and use on Schiaparelli Mars maps, canals and all, as the design basis.
To make this work would require knowledge of Mars and it's moons (Check! - says the space geek), how to construct wooden gears (check!) and the hardest part, understanding and designing a gear train. Wait a minute, that's pretty hard. Well with much hair pulling I have figured this out, and made a mock-up to test it out.

the start of the process... what a mess

To the right here you can see I've started drawing out the concept. I figured out the wheel size and teeth numbers based on the orbital period of the two moons. I assumed that if Mars rotates one complete rotation on it's axis, one day, then the orbital periods of the two moons should be rough percentages of 360 degrees, one full rotation.

model made!

So here I have made a mock up of the Mars system and what I hope are the correct sizes of the wheels for this orrery. I carved them out of foam-core, and glued rubber bands to the edges with double sided tape. Carefully aligning and using toothpicks for pivots, I'm ready to test out my maths. 
It turns out that for every rotation on Mars, Phobos takes 1.26 times the rotation of Mars, while Deimos takes .32 times the rotation of Mars. Basically Phobos orbits very quickly, crossing the Martian sky in lest than a day, while Deimos just creeps along, actually looking like it moves across the sky in the opposite direction!
So here's the plan; I carefully turn the driver gear in the center (that could be any size, I designed this one smaller, you'll see why in future posts) allowing Mars to turn one full revolution, or one full day. I mark the start positions of the wheels. I carefully count how many times the Deimos wheel turns, which should be more than once because it's smaller than the Mars wheel. Then how many degrees the Phobos wheel turns; this should be less because the wheel is larger than the Mars wheel.
Results!

the results, not bad considering the slippage of the elastics!

I seemed to have pulled it off! It's not super accurate, but damn close enough!
I counted the Mars full rotation as 360 degrees. I then counted the Deimos rotation as roughly 2 3/4 rotations, or 990 degrees. Phobos as roughly 280 degrees. Divide 360 into 990, you get .363. The actual orbital period of Deimos is .319. Pretty close!
Divide 360 into 280, you get 1.29. The actual orbital period of Phobos is 1.26! Almost spot on!


So with this gear train designed and tested, allowing for a little bit of error, I am ready to start cutting wood. Well sort-of. Due to the fiddly-ness of the meshing of the gears, I will have to make a detailed 3D plan, as like the Karakuri doll, to make this work well. 
I'm so please I'm ready to make this I'm giddy, it's been ten years in the making.
Stay tuned!